I have the same problems with my buttons. IF your mixer is still under warranty than rane will fix the buttons for you. I have yet to send mine back because I never have any time off and would be screwed without my mixer. :(

Yes.

I think they are "real" switches, not just metal foils switches.

Also I had this wear on the headphone master/cue switch as I use the button a lot.

Reason I am bringing this up is that I think they are foil switches. I know that they are under warranty but this is not an option, These swiches should last hondreds of thousands clicks as the faders on the mixer.

They should, I agree.

You guys just made me register my warranty :, i never got any kind of email confirmation though i guess i can just hope that it went through.

mine at the club is starting to develop this as well

i can actually press down on the B2 button, and rock it back and forth towards the front and back of the mixer... and it will engage/disengage. so i can turn the button off without actually taking my finger off of it or letting it come back up... this means to use it i have to press down at a specific angle to get it to work

bahumbug!

of course i'll send it in... but not until we have a lull in the schedule that allows me to be without it for a week...

this is my problem. I want to send it in but I'de need something in the mean time.


I wish they would have used like macbook keyboard style buttons for those, them things take forever to wear out.

i can use my personal 57 at the club while we fix the other one... but not everyone is this fortunate...

and i'd like to see if Rane comes up with a fix for it that lasts longer than how it came out of the box, i'm less likely to send it in if its just going to re-develop the problem in 4 months again.

and for the record, i have the v2 buttons.

I say you guys rent out another 57 while its out getting fixed, and just bill rane for it! =D

*Exactly* the problems I had on B1+B4 (the ones I use the most (first cue point)) and on the headphone master/cue (thats the other one I use the most).

I would venture to say that this is one of the CONS about the 57 the buttons wear out... if you use them alot like I do..

But I am sure I have not used them move than 5,000 times to set cue points.. and they are already failing to engage.

RANE. any suggestions on this? Does anyone know how long it takes in USA for them to do repairs?

I think repair time is usually 3-4 days once they have the mixer. They match your shipping method to get it back to you.

damnit, with v1 buttons?

Damn, damn . . . fooled twice. *NEED AN EDIT BUTTON, BTW!*

Has anyone had this problem with v1 buttons?

Nope I have the v1 buttons and they work flawlessly...

Whats the differens v1, v2 buttons. How do I know what my 57 have?

not sure if this will work for you but....i opened my 57 last week to mod the cross-fader's torsion spring and while i was in there i played around with my B1 button (also not triggering properly) and when i pieced it all back it worked perfectly. just like the rest. give it a shot, it's a pretty simple procedure.

do you have the v1 or v2 57?

Ok I found a fix cause I'm a victim of the same unstable cue problem. I had this problem and sent mine in they replaced the buttons, I got it backs and 3 more started giving out and I just didn't want to send it in again.

I FOUND A FIX!!!! Deoxit D5 ......that simple. if its not working every time you spray DEOXIT D5 on the switch thats not working work it in and they are like new. I think dirt gets in them or something and prevents them from activating. Deoxit D5 is what they tell you to use on your faded then the Pro Gold now just called Gold. but D5 works perfect mine and two of my friends were sticking so bad that we were looking to swap all the switches out with ones we found. some reason we tried this first. It's been a week and all three mixers are still perfect.

Oh and i have the second edition and another of my friends has the second and one has the first. All three work great now.

djsteel... are you spraying it over the top of the switch so it gets down in between the switch and the face plate, or are you getting under the faceplate to spray the D5... if so, could you be more specific about your process.

thanks!

oh and FYI guys... RadioShack has a 2 pack of Deoxit products for $15.

The "PowerBooster" spray is really just a quick dry, non-flammable D5, most likely renamed for RadioShack. and the Gold is the same as Gold G5, and is also of the quick dry, non-flammable, non-drip variant.

www.radioshack.com
available in most Radio Shack stores.

its a pretty good deal for the pair considering each bottle is usually $10-$11 when you buy them seperately.

a little searching and i found my answer from Rane...

www.scratchlive.net

Yeah sorry bro I remove the face plate and spray on very little then hit the switches a bunch till I feel like I worked it in. But don't use the Pro Gold on it. Just the D5 I don't think lubing the switches would be good just cleaning them. Sorry I wasn't more precise.

Bro I read the thread you posted I did remove the cover cause you cant get underneath the buttons with the cover on. If it works with the cover on let me know.

i have v2

well i did the D5 spray thing on the buttons tonight and they're triggering correctly again!

weeeeeeee.....

oh and i took the lower-half face plate off, was able to get the little red D5 spray tube/straw in around the fader curve sliders and get in between the b1-b6 button contacts.

however, i did spray from the top on one of my FlexFX buttons that was beginning to misfire, and it worked just as well.

for the record, these are v2 buttons.

Nice... good to know.

How about warranty? Do you lose it if you open the cover to get to the buttons?

I took the lower face plate off but im not seeing how you can access the B1-B6 buttons. I can see the reverse switches for fader controls but not the B1-B6 buttons. All I did was spray some in between the switch hoping it would seep thru the switch and work its way in. Hope I did it right..lol.

sticky this thread please

i keep seeing people listing all these problems with faders and buttons going out on their 57s. i 've been using mine around 20-25 hours a week for almost a year and i've never had a single issue except for my cross fader getting sticky...but a q-tip and a little WD40 fixed that right up. i think you guys just need to quit being so rough on your shit.

Lol DJMONEYD425 your killing me bro. WD40 Is the EXACT WRONG THING TO USE!!!!! Do yourself a favor and take that thing apart asap and Q-tip it to get all that off and then apply Deoxit D5 to remove all the dirt that the WD40 has caked on. After you make sure its all gone then apply the pro gold. WD40 is an all purpose lubricant that attracts dust. thats exactly what you don't want on your fader. If you can't for some reason acquire D5 and Pro Gold then all Walmarts carry Remmington Gun Oil. Clean it to the best of your ability then apply the gun oil. Gun oil does not attract dirt.

lol---yeah it attracts hillbilly chicks

Actually it's what I have on my fader and it works better then pro gold. i really don't get the hill billy comment. Why would gun oil be hill billy? It's an amazing lubricant that repels dirt. Guns can't get dirty or people might die. If people trust their lives with it, It's damn sure good enough for my mixer

no problems so far...but will do. i got some gun oil in my cleaning hit around here somewhere. thanks.

No. Use Silicone based lubricants, not gun oil. Read the manual!!!.

My button are failing too. I love my 57, but i don't know how long it will last.

Stuart, I used the the manual to find the answer to fix your and my button problem. I didn't suggest gun oil as a first option I said if you can't find pro gold. I was told by a big time DJ friend of mine to use gun oil, I researched it and it's not a bad solution if you can't find pro gold. I put gun oil on mine before I knew better and i have a friend who used pro gold. My fader and the guy who told me to use gun oils fader (a 57 too) are about twice as loose as the guy that used the manual. Over time it's just getting looser. I've done it and it works well. Use Deoxit D5 on your buttons and hopefully that solves the problem it did for me I love the 57 best mixer ever made.

I still dont understand how you apple the deoxit on the buttons... How do you "open" the buttons?

i believe so.

bottom cover is ok to take off... (service faders etc) taking off the top cover is a no no.

pm rane to be sure ;)

yo. i deoxited mine. works good as new. you have to use the straw to get back where the buttons are. it took a couple applications but baam. done deal.

It's amazing

*absorbing knowledge*

Btw, the 57 is like a car... do regular maintenance on it to prevent problems... the more 'miles' you put on it, the more scheduled 'oil changes' you will need.

Common sense.


*moron alert* This is just an analogy. Don't use car oil or any kind of oil on your mixer.

:P

I think you can use 3 in 1 oil like sewing machine oil on the fader bars, but probably best giving Castrol GTX a miss.

why not open up both panels? the lower plate is for accessing the 3 faders. that's it. if you open the the main plate you can access all the buttons and switches. i got in there to clean out the B1-B6 buttons and the deck control button. if you use the edge of a kleenex then you can get all the gunk out that may have made it's way in over time, then you can apply the D5. i would recommend doing regular maintenance maybe every 6-8 months. dirt, dust, sweat, and random gunk will make it's way around the knobs and faders and into the casing. it's a very simple process. take your time and put the pieces that come out in a logical order so it goes back the same way. in fact when i opened mine up i found an extra plastic housing that goes under the knobs. i guess it fell in there during manufacturing.

i agree with you 100% sixxx

Update.. My B4 button is now almost non usable... B1 is failing starting to wear out baddly as well.

yer im in the same boat, anyone know what to do for nz residents.

one of my buttons wasnt firing every single time

pulled both plates and Deoxited all of them

man do they feel good now!!!

best tip in a long time

Akiem, can you post pics how to open and how you applied the de-oxit spray?

this is my 57 open (dont know if it voids warranty)
i79.photobucket.com

1. remove all fader and knob caps
2. remove the top plate
3. remove the faders (silver screws) let them sit in the bottom
4. unscrew all screws from the bottom plate
5. lift the bottom plate slightly being aware that there is a white flat cable that is connected to the led meter display which is glued to the underside of the bottom plate
6. remove the cable, just pull it out (you can see in the pic its the one in the center, the blue is the contact)
7. now you can take the bottom plate all the way off
8. remove all the caps from the buttons (you can see them off in the pic)
9. spry Deoxit with the quickest burst, using the red straw, aim for between the black and white plastic so it gets all up in there
10. wipe away the access with cloth
11. wait a little while for it to evaporate, you might see liquid in the buttons still when you press them

blam, good to go. maybe my imagination but they feel better then originally

make sure that you dont hammer on the buttons with it open like this because the pc board is sort of floating on plastic things or something. bolting it to the plate is what lets you bang on the buttons

and when you put the plate back on be careful not to bend any of the leds that are sticking up off the pc board

Jesus. Thats a straigh up wiki article. If you dont mind, can I add this to the scratchlive user wiki?

Someone needs to find out whether this voids the warranty.

nice work! Thank you, man

you can use it
I think I spelled some shit wrong
also, try it out because that was from memory, might need refining

and use this pic, not the other one
s79.photobucket.com

Cheers man :)

sweet, can mods give us some indication on wether we should try this or just send it in.

no, it doesn't void the warranty. i had taken mine completely apart (disconnected the faders to clean them) and reconnected them all backwards--bad idea. They all fried immediately. The only way i could get sound through anything was by flipping the reverse switches. I took it to rane and they had it fixed and back to me within 1 day and they did it for free because it hasn't been out long enough for the warranty to expire.

oh yeah, if you completely disconnect the faders, make sure you reconnect them with the red stripe on the RIGHT.

I just deoxitized my mixer.


It really helped the B buttons. My main problems were B1 & B4 (The ones that get used a lot). Anyways They work really good now, The B1 button still feels a little iffy but it's 10x better then it was before. Mixer was easy as heck to take apart. I only had a problem with one screw (stripped it a little). Other then that it was a cakewalk. I noticed there's a large amount of room in the front of a mixer. Anybody ever think about putting in a laptop usb powered laptop harddrive in there? Seems like it would fit easily.

ps. I cleaned all my faders as well...holy crap it feels like fading on air now. I forgot how smooth these thing are originally.

Is Deoxit D5 ok to clean the buttons and faders in the mixer?

worked great for me. cleaned the metal with a q-tip (there was A LOT of dirt), then a few quick sprays and I moved the faders back and forth a few times to make sure it got everywhere. Let it dry and put um back in.

sounds like an interesting idea, but i'm a bit too scurr'd to start cutting holes and messing with the circuits in my $1500 mixer (i've had mine almost a year so prices we still up there.)

thought about it, but I do not see what the benefit would be

alright so i deoxit'd my B6 without unscrewing things. i got lazy and worried about the warranty. it is working great now. no miss hits so far with that button.

I just use my finger and pull the button to the side to make the gap bigger. sprayed some compressed air to clear any dust i cannot see. Then a quick burst of deoxit in the gap. next, i just move the button around in a circular motion (not pressing it yet). then i press it a couple of times. with the compressed air again, i just give it another spray to spread out the lube. and thats it.

also, i was doing some cleaning on my old pioneer 707, and boy was the buttons better (the fader start buttons). no clicks and its smooth to hit. this $1200+ mixer needs buttons like that.

thx akiem!!!

So i have had mine since 9-5-07 and at my gig tonight some b buttons were not engaging. I thought at first it was because i wasnt pushing hard enough, but even after making sure to push hard down on them, it took a few pushes to engage. You think guitar center will replace it since it hasnt been that long??

yeah they should...otherwise rane will fix it for free. gc will correct any issue themselves within 60 days of purchase.

K i better do it soon then, thank you.

just wanna say that after cleaning the b buttons w/ deoxit d5 cleaner they've been working great. I think it's just the gaps that collect dust & dirt are the problem. It seems like sending it in would be a waste because once they get dirty again they will start acting up. If you have steady gig's it's nearly impossible to go without the 57 for a week or so.

I havent even had mine for 60 days yet, and i use it about 3 nights a week always in a case. I want to try the cleaning technique but dam how much dirt could have gotten in there from such a short time.....

I dont think it is dirt.

yeah mine started messing up after like 3 months of being used (and I was PISSED). I used it a lot though. Two times a week for gigs (one is outside), and pretty much the whole week for practice. Maybe there is a problem with the buttons, not sure but when I cleaned the contacts with a q-tip I gathered a good amount of black stuff.

Thinks it's a mfg defect? Design flaw? I had a dream that I changed the b buttons to the f buttons like on my mac book pro. I got all excited till I woke up :(

hahahaha dreaming about the 57 thats awesome :). Im going to GC in about 5 minutes with my receipt in hand while im there i might as well get some of that groove glide stuff, but the weird part about these buttons is that they dont feel broken. They feel exactly like they did when i bought it just without the engagement....

yeah I need help.

do you smoke around your mixer? that could be cause for extra buildup, but still shouldnt cause them to start failing THAT quickly...

naa, my friday night gig is outside but I don't let anybody smoke near/around it. I'm guessing just a lot of hours, moving it around, dust, wind, dirty fingers, etc etc it could add up pretty fast.

Just got back from guitar center, they only had one 57 and it was a repaired one from rane with new warranty etc etc. Anyways i traded it in because i dont feel like waiting until they got more in. All buttons work perfect, hopefully it went into rane because of a button problem and they fixed it so it will either last a lot longer before having the problem again or never have it again. Im kinda mad because i like keeping my stuff in pristine condition and the box i got with this 57 is all crushed and messed up from shipping back and forth.... Also for some reason my channel two up fader is just a tad stiffer then channel one, i hate being so dam picky about things :(. Other then that everything works great and looks new and its good to have working b buttons again. I hope they last this time around :)

you don't need to smoke, you have a high humidy in the club in combination with dust and fog from the smokers...

deoxit it

That is my assumption... but it is only an assumption. I dont know what is causing the problems - but there are definitly some.

Thanks, Akiem!.
The buttons on my mixer are now roking correctly.
I was in big trouble cause its impossible for me to send my mixer to Serato cause i live in Argentina.
Cheeerio.

So I had my first experience with the echo button (B6) not working properly for about a minute. :(

At home.

A 1 month old mixer that I haven't taken out.

Hours of use? About 10.

-1 Rane.

sticky this thread
add Deoxit to the manual

my buttons feel buttery smoother then original

Problem is... still waiting for an official "yes, you can do this w/o voiding the warranty".

+2 if i did attempt this deoxit thing i would put that silicon cleaner lube stuff on the faders as well at the same time. I have read good things about that stuff skratchworx.com

agreed, the deoxit worked great for me.

i don't work for rane, but i can attest from personal experience that "deoxit-izing" your mixer will NOT void your warranty. i did everything suggested in the skratchworx.com tutorial and accidentally reconnected all of my faders backwards and fried them all. i called rane and told them EVERYTHING I had done...they said "bring it in. it's still under warranty. we'll fix it right up for ya and have it ready for pickup by tomorrow."

B/c Rane accepted it once doesnt mean they acknowledge that it will not void your warranty.

you obviously didnt read my last post all the way...

I read it, but I personally think this was an exception. Unless they explicitly say otherwise, I cant see why taking the mixer apart would not void the warranty.

Using DeoxIT to clean your faders/buttons will not void your warranty.

Okey, but what about removing the lower cover?

Well, that's personal preference I guess. :P

The lower decor plate cover is OK to remove. We give detailed fader cleaning instructions in the manual explaining how to remove the cover and clean/lube the faders.

Word, the actual question is what happens if you do what AKIEM has posted (check the pics).

Thanks, Nik. Thats exactly what i wanna know.

i think an "I told you so" is in order here...you know it and i know it.

moenyd, read again.

Ah, removing the complete top cover, is not recommended, but if done correctly (with power cord disconnected and etc), it would hard for us to tell it had been opened.

what isn't clear here? you were wrong...i was right. I'm not knockin you my dude...i've actually learned a lot from your posts on this forum, but this time, regarding the warranty, you were wrong. You live on the other side of the world. I live about 13 minutes from the factory (depending on traffic). I've personally dealt with the warranty issue after having completely taken my mixer apart and plugged everything in backwards. In fact, i'm pretty positive that Shaun Whitcher is the tech that i gave my mixer to when i took it in (unless there are two Shauns). Get over it dude. Let it go. It's ok to be wrong once in a while. It even happens to me every couple years or so lol.

I dont know why you are making this a battle between me und you. How can I be wrong or even right when I didnt say anything on this matter? I hate it when people give advice w/o having a clue.

Just b/c Rane repaired or accepted your mixer... This could have been done on a pure goodwill basis and may not constitute anything. They are good people at Rane, and I may live on the other side of the world but I still have contact with some of them from time to time. Nevertheless I dont see any reason how the proximity would make any difference.

If anything goes wrong while lubing the fader - it should be covered as they mention the lubing in the manual, so it should be under warranty.



So if anything goes wrong while we took the mixer apart (complete top cover) is this covered by warranty? I am not talking about the case if you guys would not realize that the top cover has been replaced - obviously then it would not be a problem for the user if he doesnt explicitly tell you.

Dude...can you read?

I TOLD Rane that i took the top cover off...TWICE. Once over the phone and once when I was dropping it off. They TOLD me that it was STILL under warranty. PERIOD.

And I count 16 posts by you on this topic alone...seems like you've had plenty to say on this matter.

Give it up.

Money....CHILL!

I understand what Nik is saying. They say that removing the complete cover is not recommended. And as far as i'm concerned if they can prove that you damaged the mixer with the cover removed ("....for us to tell it had been opened") the warranty could be void.

I think the only parts of the mixer that are self serviceable are the faders (wich you can lube and replace yourself), so your case is covered. But if you remove the complete cover and you break something its it would void the warranty.

I do not think the bottom cover is meant to be removed by the user.

I have Deoxited buttons without removing the cover. But I don't like the idea of a pool of the stuff forming.

we do need a definitive answer

Exactly.

We are not talking about the bottom cover. We are talking about the complete top cover.

But yes, we need a definitive answer.

right, I call the larger plate that covers the entire top of the mixer the "bottom cover" as apposed to the "top cover" being the smaller one you remove to service the faders.

Did anyone heard about any other brand/model mixer that needs opening the mixer that often? Which is even mentioned in the manual? Can anyone mention a brand/model mixer that is (or was) in his/her possession that worked flawlessly without need of opening or repair years after years of abuse?
Just looking for your honest opinion/advice.
Thanks.

i've had a Vestax 06 Pro and a Vestax 05. I had to open both frequently, but the diference is that those Vestax faders were really crappy and made a lot of noise when they were dirty.

I've opened my Rane just once (to deoxit the buttons). And its working just fine.

even a maserati's gonna need regular oil changes to stay tip top!

Stuart+AKIEM, thank god, at least some people understand what I was trying to say.

Wow, OK I'll give it to you straight.

The decor plate, the colored plate covering the faders (as detailed in the product manual), is OK to remove.

--------------------------------------------------------------

[begin_legal_rant]

We do not authorize, recommend nor condone the removal of the main metal faceplate cover.

^^ at our discretion ^^




[/end_legal_rant]

Thanks for the clarification, Shaun. :)

And..............










































We were right. End of story.
Thanks Shaun.

um....nik39 was right. you were just holding his needle...

As i said, "End of story"

Jesus... I was not right, I was not wrong. I didnt say "they said warranty is void" or anything, I didnt say anything about what they said or did not say.

Oh yeah...

will one of you moderators close this thread already please...

End of the story about warranty.

That doesnt mean we cant still discuss alternatives or experiences. No need to close this thread IMHO.

wow...shut the fuck up about it already.

Hahahahaha!

Ive been able to squirt Deoxit straight into the buttons without removing the plate. But then I do have a concern about not being able to wipe it away.

it's okay if you don't wipe it down completely. Get what ya can.

I think it evaporates anyway. Do you use the red straw or something thinner to get there Akiem?

Ok so my "brand new" return repair 57sl from GC lol, only used it total of ten hours gigging out and my b1 button is "mushy" feeling already, so next step is trying out this deoxidizing thing i hope it works :). I stopped using the b1 button to cue and i just started using my trigger finger pads instead with 1.8 beta but still....

Update. All the buttons worked great for a couple of weeks, the they started failing again. Deoxit again, and they are working ok. What about you guys? Did you have to deoxit again?

oh well that is discouraging.

btw deoxit does leave a red film

some people in this thread seriously need a hug

nah...i'll take a bl*w job instead.

My mixer has been used for less than 8 hours so far and the buttons are giving me problems. But it seems to be software related (The more stuff going on in serato, like relative mode, scrolling tracks having more than 1 track loaded, etc, seems to make the b1-b6, joysticks, and knobs non-trigger or late-trigger more often). It's funny how I got this mixer for the serato control, and I'm loving the mixer build quality but not so much loving the serato aspect.

P.S.
My ssl has USB dropouts very frequently. Occasionally my ssl will completely freeze until I pull out the USB cable. This happens with all versions of 1.7-1.8.

I never had a single problem or crash using the SL1 box, and I used it for a year with usb buffer at the lowest setting. The only changes to my system were installing some xp hotfixes.

I need to fix this asap as I have a gig for the first time in a new city in 48 hours...

Right now I'm backing up my music and going to do a fresh windows + SSL installation...wish me luck.

Let us know how thw clean install goes.

What are the specs of your computer?

IBM Thinkpad T43

1.86 ghz Intel Pentium M Centrino
512 MB RAM
40 GB hard drive with about 5 GB free
Windows XP no service pack (I know its below the mininum specs but the SL1 worked great this way for a year so I figured if it aint broke dont fix it...I'm hoping this is the cause of my 57SL issues)

Will keep you guys posted.

P.S. the B1-B6 buttons will non-trigger or late-trigger, and the graphics framerate will drop when my CPU is under stress..but the computer hotkeys still seem to trigger fine.

one more P.S. (last and final, sorry)

With the SL-1, my scratchlive process in task manager used to display around 30% on average.

Now it's 50-100% averaging at 70%. I don't know why but I thought I'd mention that.

Lame my button problem has nothing to do with the software. My b1 button feels mushy even with the mixer off :(

Ir is running much better now with 20-30% CPU in my task manager and the buttons aren't acting strange...phewwww...

midihendrix, judging by the age of your computer I would say you most likely do have SP2 installed but it will have been bundled in with your OS, you can check your service pack by typing winver in the run box.

nobspangle, yea... The issues I had were computer related. Now that I've fixed them I haven't experienced a problem and the response time and stability is great.

Well, thought I dodged the bullet. But it turns out my month old 57 has developed the infamous "button wear". I'm gonna shoot over to the shack some time this week & grab some DeoxIT. I'll post-up... hopefully with a victory speech.

it works but the wear will come back. I've had to deoxit my buttons twice now. It's kind of annoying but ehh, better then sending it in and not having a mixer for a week or so each time.

I've had to deoxit mine 3 times.

It would be nice to have a long term solution.

This really is not up to Rane's quality standards!

I'm willing to bet they know about it, and are talking about possible solutions.

for any australians reading this the equivalent spray is

www.crcind.com.au

works like a charm.

rane should do a recall and as mik 39 said this is not up to Rane's quality standards

Yea im going to return mine to GC again and just get another one if they have them available. Then i will deoxit the third one when it goes bad. I just dont have the time to do it right now.

can anyone from Rane please comment.

Lol, you guys never lose your humour. :)

bottom line do you guys suggest the SL1 over the 57SL I just purchased the 57SL but never owned the SL1

also I haven't opened the 57SL because I'm debating if I should just return it and buy the SL1.if these buttons are acting up can i still use the laptop buttons to control the serato as with the SL1

yea you can still do anything on the laptop like normal. The buttons are really only a problem for me because i have gotten so used to using them lol. Its now a pain in the ass to use serato the regular way hahah

yes you can still use the 1 though 0 numbers like normal.

The thing is: You cant' activate the FX from the laptop keyboard.

I must say, these B1-B6 buttons could be improved. From day 1 that I received my mixer they haven't responded properly and after a few months of use I really need to press them hard and several times... (they could be bigger as well...)

How do I go about cleaning them?

MrNice, just check this thread :) AKIEM posted a short how-to.

Sweet, will do, thanks :)

1 of my ttm57s is the one with the original buttons, and the other has the new buttons...the one with the new buttons is maybe 2 months old and already has problems with response...the original one still works flawlessly.

That sucks.

I just got a brand new one from GC again, so in a few weeks i assume i will have the problem again and then its time to deoxit. Anyway to order and retrofit the older style buttons?

How do I know which version of the buttons I have?

concave buttons = v1
convex buttons = v2

Say what? No idea what either mean... do they look different?

Concave:

en.wikipedia.org <- click

Convex

en.wikipedia.org <- click

what the hell does all that mean? can't anybody just put it into layman's terms?

Hahaha...
V2 are "dome like" buttons.
V1 are like a tiny tiny soup bowl.

Are they still the same size in both versions? is it just the shape that changed?

thanks stuart. i got the v1 buttons which i prefer immensely over the v2 buttons.

Hmmm if this is true then the theory about V1 buttons not having this problem is probably wrong since im pretty sure my first 57 had soup bowl buttons. My friend bought his in the same batch so when i see him sometime this week i will confirm the soup bowl buttons and conclude that my soup bowl buttons still had the engaging problem. My newest 57 has V2 buttons.

Nope.
I don't think its a V1-V2 thing. My 57 has v2 and still having problems.

Good description, I'm on V2..

I still prefer concave and convex ;))

So the "v2" models still have the same problem?

if i buy a 57 i will just have to expect to periodically clean all of the buttons
to avoid the buttons issues?

Rane says its not a problem for majority of users so maybe you will be the lucky one and get a mixer that will not have this problem :)

Getting a TTM57 is like falling in love with the most amazing yet troubled girl... Your heart is hers forever, but she does have problems.. love hurts.

hahahha she breaks if you fondle her too much

it would be nice if Rane could find a permanent solution to this.

i agree...i think thats 2 now nik. crazy.



well put...

the buttons keep failing. dammmmit.

There was no problem with the v1 buttons. From what I can tell the problem with the v2 buttons is that they are a little bit smaller and if you hit them at an angle sometimes they don't make contact like they should.

lol @ concoave vs convex and not knowing the definition EVEN AFTER it was described. lol

Even after 3 deoxits?? Not looking good

i'm starting to think i just have the worlds best ttm57 period.

Yes, after 3 deoxits. Not cool.

i wonder if those who are having to repeatedly deoxit their buttons are using (and leaving) their mixers uncovered in dustier environments than those of us who haven't had to re-apply deoxit?

I've not had to deoxit my own personal 57, but i keep a lint free cloth over it when not in use. it gets maybe 8 hours of use a week.
The one i have at the club however has had to be deoxited once. It gets used 5 hours a day, 5 days a week, in a lounge that can get smokey from time to time. Otherwise it stays covered.
It needed deoxit after about 2 months, but that was 3 months ago and ever since it has been fine.

..just my thoughts...

I use mine at 3 different clubs during the week. I'll try covering the mixer while not in use. I'll let you if it makes any difference.

i started covering mine when I get home so that during the day / middle of the night it's covered. I've had to deoxit once and ever since it's been pretty good. I think you just need to figure out how to hit the buttons just right.

i always keep mine in its case covered when not in use and i still had problems. My friend bought a 57 the same time i did and his works fine still but he never uses the b1-b6 buttons except to turn on an effect. Me on the other hand i use mine constantly. I use them for effects setting cues, and every song i probably push them about 8-10 times to beat match. He pushes them 10 times the whole gig, so i use them much more then he does but i was hoping that it could take it.

The v1 buttons where sometimes double triggering, or not triggering at all. At least the v2 buttons (in proper condition) are not acting up like that.



Honestly... we should not have to worry about it. I take care about my mixer, do not leave it in dusty environment and still the buttons got flaky. If it is due to dust and if that is true: "Most indoor dust is made up of human skin. Thousands of skin cells fall off your finger for each press of a button." then Rane needs to find a way to protect the buttons. Encapsulate them or something. If that is not possible, and if Rane thinks we users need to service the mixer from time to time (just with a car) then accessing to the buttons should be made easier *and* it cleaning the buttons (taking off the top cover) should NOT void the warranty!

Very good point +1000

I would love it if they made them like keyboard keys (the smaller f buttons). That would be rad.

Yeah, dude. That would be like totally radical. Cowabunga!

nah man, you want them like big sqaure pads like an MPC, make the mixer a hybrid sampler/mixer!

ok so rane never said how we should go about cleaning the b buttons with deoxit...i've read this entire discussion and i've heard a few suggestions but i wanna know how rane recommends using the deoxit???

stop eating cheetos while you dj. that shit will really gunk up your mixer.

Deoxit - what is it????

after i open and close my coffin often, my faders get a little sticky... don't use de-oxit on your faders, it's only 25% lube and actually can make it sticky if you don't clean it real well before and after...use fader lube ($8), it's by the same company-caig and is 100% lube...i tried it on my 57 the other day and it feels brand new!!! definatelty reccomend it asap...

we are NOt talking about the faders, MODJ. We are talking about the B1 B6 buttons. Of course we are not gonna use contact cleaner on a fader!!!.

sorry to stray, but do you use faderlube for the metal parts and not the contacts in the crossfader?

The 57 faders have no contacts, you lube the fader bars, just a drop on each one and your good.

right on... thanks. I will do that.

Is there any difference between the CAILube and the new FaderLube? Looks like just the name changed.

No, caiglube and deoxit faderlube are the same product.

when people say De-oxit (a brand name product maid by Caig)), it's like saying spray? there are a million different types of de-oxit (fader lube,contact cleaner,gold cleaner,static all,shield,etc)

yes, they changed the name, formery Cailube MCL now Deoxit Faderlube (f-100L) and it's not harmful on any of the parts, plastic or metal...just make sure you use a little and wipe off the rest!! :)

It funny how everyone is complaining about there ttm57 mixer having bad switches and stuff. I am a electrical engineer and i have been noticing this problem with alot of electronics out there. Ever since the electronic industry switched over to RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substance) compliance all the components out there are failing alot. I use a lot of the lead free solder and noticed that the melting point is different than normal solder which makes it harder to catch the RoHS components and the flux on lead free solder is not the greatest so its harder to work with. So yes using deoxit does work but it gets rid of the oxidation off the solder joints and contacts. But for people who use certain switches alot they will notice that a certain switch stops working. The reason for this is the solder starts to crack from vibration, everyday use, and temperture. This is solder is the main cause of all the problems. I thought i jus tell people out there why there mixers are giving them problems and not to blame rane for cheep parts in there mixers. I think there equipment is solid and i stand by it. Overtime the electronic industry has been focusing on the enviroment so that means the parts are not what they used to be. I have noticed this with the SL boxes out there. I usually get alot of djs who are in a rush and there warranty is expired come to me to repair there SL boxes and notice these problems alot. After a few fixes these boxes are ready to go. Like I said I will stand by this product.

someone should study the environmental impact of all the extra spraying, soldering and hardware junking.

No matter how much someone studies about these parts it wont change much. All electronic company have to follow guidelines and rules according to RoHS compliance. Yes if rane used parts like the older ttm56 had used and regular solder we wouldnt have all these problem but its not a choice rane can take. At my company i am always searching for RoHS parts to revise our current products and making sure there is no signs of lead. If you lift your ttm57 you will notice a sticker with a green logo. This will indicate that the board is RoHS. We design alot of audio equipment as well at my work and we have been noticing alot of Returns and repairs due to all the components failing. Even all the liquid People (detoxit) are spraying into there mixer have to meet enviromental standards.
So there is a 50/50 win and loss. Yes we are saving the enviroment with no waste in the landfills with lead components out there but we are also lossing alot of quality in electronic components.

Wow.. that was insightful, thanks for sharing this info Delirious

yup thanks
but for real part of the environmental problem seems to be all the 'junk' produced, the material and energy. possibly creating less quality product will cause there there to be more junking, causing a net increase in waste and pollution. for example when the mixer reaches the dump it could have several cans of deoxit, replacement parts and whatever workaround fixes next to it. just a thought

Yes that is true but you will also notice when you pay for electronic components these days you are paying an extra hidden charge. This is for enviromental fee. This is regulated, so its a must every consumer pays this fee. This fee goes towards the recycling of electronic components. So when a certain equipment can not be repaired or parts be used for other things all these electronics should go to an electronic recycle yard where they strip the metal,plastic and other parts and recycle and reuse them again. Lets jus hope people use these areas... cause we are paying for them.

As for the Deoxit, I dont see why there should be layers of deoxit on the mixer. All you need to do is jus use a bit Isopropyl alcohol (make sure its 99.8% or greater) to clean certain contacts or faders and spray lightly the deoxit (gold is better) and its ready to go. As for deoxit being an enviromental hazard if you go on there website you will notice they meet RoHS compliance as well so it should not harm the enviroment as much.

Interesting.

I guess the extra fees also cause less purchases as well that end up in the land fill. With the deoxit example, the several containers and packaging will make it to the land fill, and the energy used to make them has to be accounted for.

I just hope the governments know what they are doing.

I just forwarded this to Bush. Oh wait he don't believe in the global warming!

Problem is simple.. Rane should make different buttons for these.. When my buttons started to act up.. I only used the mixer for less then 4 gigs at 4 hours each.. with approx 5 hours untop of that... So it's not dust.. it's cheap switches that simple!!...

I had my Denons s5000 Decks for 5 years now.. and all my buttons work.. and I use those more then anything else.. RANE needs to change those switches!!..



"Honestly... we should not have to worry about it. I take care about my mixer, do not leave it in dusty environment and still the buttons got flaky. If it is due to dust and if that is true: "Most indoor dust is made up of human skin. Thousands of skin cells fall off your finger for each press of a button." then Rane needs to find a way to protect the buttons. Encapsulate them or something. If that is not possible, and if Rane thinks we users need to service the mixer from time to time (just with a car) then accessing to the buttons should be made easier *and* it cleaning the buttons (taking off the top cover) should NOT void the warranty!"

Yes thats true but everything has to meet strict regulations now even packaging

+1 Im on my third 57 and on this one i dont even use the b buttons because im afraid they will "wear" out or what ever and stop working. I do all my cueing and everything with my laptop and it bugs because the whole reason i bought a 57 was to use the hell out of the buttons......

Like I said before yes your denon decks might have worked because of the materials used and how its produced in the past but according to new regulations, these parts are getting more cheeper in price, less harmful on the enviroment, and can be recycled. So theres no way you can compare an older model with the newer ones for reliability. All the older electronics i think is more durable than all these new things coming out. For example a DVD player use to cost in the hunderds of dollars a few years ago and lasted way longer but all the new DVD players are like less than 50 bucks and they may last a few months because of the parts used in them and the new methods used to make these PC boards. This has nothing to do with dust or skin cells. As for Rane making the buttons i am positive they dont make them they source them out from other companies. I would know i have been in the elctronics industry for awhile now and seen how the process works. If your still under warranty send your mixer back to Rane and they can take a look at the switches but i suggest you dont open up your mixer cause it voids your warranty.

I always thought they should have made the buttons more like keyboard buttons. The smaller ones like the "F" buttons on laptops.

Those always work, they are small, can handle tons of dirt, and don't seem to complicated. I don't know shit about engineering though. I'm sure Rane had lots of reasons for every little part on the mixer.

Yeah that would be nice but a real compilcated design because the laptop buttons have little springs and a housing to clip the keys on. Where as the ttm57 just has a plastic piece that sits on top of the switches.

I think "dust" has nothing to do with B buttons. I think it has something to do with the way the buttons fit on the plate.
Try "hitting" the button real quick instead of pressing the button, They work fine if you hit them.
Try it, let test if this is true.

werd, I'm not sure how I hit them but I have adjusted in such a way that I almost never get a mis-fire. I don't even think about it anymore. I tap them like I would doing a BPM tap count.

I have noticed on these mixers some of the plastic buttons dont sit straight or one is lower than the other. It could be the cause of this is not the actual electronic buttons but the black plastic we push on. This might cause the button to work some times and some times not at all. I know this was a problem in all of the denon 1500 mixers were the cue buttons ues to get stuck.

Then how would de-oxid help in such a case?

deoxit would not work on the actual black plastic buttons. It is made for metal surfaces with severe oxidation and corrosion and cleans, protects, lubricates and improves conductivity on all metal connectors and contacts. So you have to physically remove the top plate then the bottom to get to the PC board with the switches.

Yes, but what I meant was, your theory is that the buttons do not sit properly. How do you explain that de-oxit helps actually?

its ether a material blockage or a space between the contact when depressed
I have doubts about it being the former, and they feel different after the deoxit which leads me to believe it could be the later.

I like the feeling after the deoxit treatment, smoother, and would use it without the problem.

But I do think there may be some sort of design flaw, in the switch, not the mixer.

Well deoxit is a lubricant which might make the black plastic slip a bit easier and contact the buttons more so theres a better chance of it working but over time if we keep spraying this is might make the plastic softer or even crack since its not intended for plastics.

I think Rane has to do some stress tests on these switches and verify if its the switches them selves or the actual plastic buttons.

Exactly, that's what i'm talking about. If you tap them, they never fail.
Maybe they were design to "drum" on them or hitting the hard and fast.

Its true that deoxit helps (i did deoxit mine 3 times) but i started noticing that the way you push the buttons is relevant.

I really think the reason most People who own 57's have not been complaining about this problem is simple. They dont use the buttons, most Big DJ's that own a 57 from what i have seen on you tube etc etc use the laptop buttons. Where as a Newbie like me who thinks is a godsend to have all the functions right on their mixer pushes those buttons about 15 times per song. I used to use them for cueing, beat matching, drumming, you name it seriously about 10-20 times a song i would push those buttons. All of my friends that have been using serato for years and just bought the 57 dont use the b buttons, because they are so comfortable with the old way of using the laptop buttons instead. I think if everyone used the mixer the way its supposed to be used rane would have many many more complaints about the subject.

like an album or mix tape, you gotta go ahead and drop it sometime!


cool, hit em hard...
check

You can't use the laptop keys to turn FX on and off.
But well, let's hit 'em hard!.

I agree. I've used this mixer ALOT and i find the B1-B6 buttons to be nowhere near as accurate as my laptop buttons. Disappointing, but oh well, it's still a really nice mixer in other ways.

I agree. I've used this mixer ALOT and i find the B1-B6 buttons to be nowhere near as accurate as my laptop buttons. Disappointing, but oh well, it's still a really nice mixer in other ways.

you're kidding right? my B1-B6 buttons are completely on point. in fact, the only bad thing i can say about my 57 is that I use the on board functions so much and everything works so well that i pretty much HATE every other mixer out there.

What up fellas... here's the update on my 57. I was having problems with my Left Flex FX button and the B4 button. They weren't always responding to my gentle then firm touch (No Homo).

I purchased the spray recommended here, Deoxit, but didn't end up using it. Actually, I used it to lube/clean my bike chain. I may have jumped the gun here. After really breaking in my mixer and it's buttons, they all have been working great.

Thanks for the original idea an post up, AKIEM.

I have added more pics and more detailed instructions at the SSL user wiki...

ssl-wiki.help.bootlegs.de <- click

nice job

hey delirious, do you know when the electronic industry switched over to rohs? i don't see green sticker on bottom ?

i actually own the originall ttm-57 version 1 with original knobs , faders and buttons...i use my mixer every day and take it out 3x a week since day 1 and no problems?

knock on wood...

p.s. i wonder how many mixers rane has gotten back to fix these button problems... (i wonder if there's a real problem or if most these people are just delusional?) it seems like they changed the buttons to improve them, but my old ones are just fine....

The problem exist, that's for sure.

I also have not been having any problems with my third 57 but i attribute it to not using my buttons anymore LOL. I only use them to set cues occasionally everything else is done on my laptop. I dont want to deal with exchanging it again :(

I agree with Chelu, for me most of the time(and I'm gettig use to it) is for cues and efx occasionly or not all the time. Hope I don't wear the buttons...a little skeptical but oh well.

I will take a pic of my ttm 57 and show you guys the sticker. They should have changed over early spring 2007. I know there is two versions out there and some might not have the RohS parts in them i am not sure but i will try to find out. Lucky i stock tons of these switches at home cuz we order tons of parts for our products. If i ever have this problem i am jus gonna add in newer better switches instead of De-oxit like how every one does. Thats not gonna solve your problem, its just temp fix which will over time cause it to act up again.

So the original TTM doesn't have this issue. The newer released ones have this switch... Is that right??

It's to the point where I always would rather use my original ttm57 than my new one (I have 2, one with the old buttons, one with the new.) I'm nervous about taking the mixer apart, but I guess if I fuck it up its under warranty.

All have ROHS parts.



The older ones have different switches which sometimes double trigger, not good!

I've got the button problem now...I'm sending my mixer back to Rane to replace 'em.

yep, that's why I just cleaned it myself. Unless they came up with a permanent solution to the fix, not having the 57 for a week+ isn't worth it.

The deoxit worked great for me and I did not even remove the faceplate...like night and day

Dub Cowboy, how did you apply the deoxid?

with the straw, tilted into the side of the buttons. Then I worked the buttons with fluid around, not a lot- just enough. It got a little messy, so I had a towel right there to soak up the juice. I cleaned it up real good and now I hit all the cues again.

oh yeah...


better put some (misquote protection) on that (no homo) geez...

Yeah I'm with you Steve Dub.

Meanwhile, my OG ttm57 with the og buttons still works like a CHAMP!

same here...

its too easy not to do.... But I, like you may have, let the can sit there for weeks while I missed cues. Make it work

I dont recommend lubing the buttons, they are gonna get sticky and you only gonna make it worse. Use contacts cleaner like deoxit or a spray like the one youy use for cleaning camera lens.

I'd recommend de-oxid, and not a lube. You dont need to buy the original de-oxid. A replacement which removes oxid will work as well.

Mine says "Kontak 60"... german manufacturer.

oops..insert [

this=that

does anyone know where to get deoxit in Vancouver, British Columbia.

thought you had radio shacks up thar

Just wanted to say somethin about the button wear issue.

When I first got my 57 I had to de-oxit it about 3 months after I got it. It cleared the problem up for the most part but it returned. Fast forward to present time (9 months later) and I haven't deoxitized (is that a word?) since. I think the buttons are worn-in now and they trigger very well on a consistent basis.

My point is that before jumping the gun and shipping your 57 back, try sticking with it for a few months. Practice hitting the buttons like you would if you were BPM tapping (a quick and solid tap). I have been using the 57 every weekend since I got it and the buttons are working rather well without the deoxit cleaning method.

Maybe they just need to be used for a little bit to get them really broken in? I don't know for sure but that is what I think after using mine for so long.

:)

<3 my 57SL (someone make a shirt :P )

Also if a mod/admin/serato person could jump in on that idea (that they need to be broken in) and if it has any validity that would be great. I had a "button wear" thread back in the day that went on pretty long because I was a little frustrated with the issue but now...I would like to formally retract any negative opinions I had and say that if anything my 57 is working better then when I got it originally.


yay for redbull in the morning.

The funny thing... one of my TTM57SL works flawless since Rane had a look at it (aka exchanged it), while the newer one made problems, I have no, none with the older one. It is a bit weird.

hmm interesting. I only brought it up because Saturday at my res I was heavily using cue points and the B buttons to do a whole host of things while playing. About 3/4 of the way through I thought to myself "Man these are triggering perfectly, and have been for a long ass time". I just hadn't really though about it in a while because last time I was having problems was so long ago.

Button Fix was the DeOxit Correct?

Try going to RP Electronics its in burnaby close to lougheed highway. Right beside Canadian Tire.

^^ thank you sir

Hi i don't own a TTM 57SL, but i saw this on Caig's website

DeoxIT Shield. store.caig.com

would that fix the problem that sum users have
to apply the DeoxIT upto 3 times ??
must be a pain in the ass that the problem
comes back after a couple of months.

want to see a permanent solution for this problem
i'am saving up for a new mixer and the TTM 57SL
might be the one i will pick up.

^^ Any one used the DeoxIT Shield or does the buttons
break in after a while after use of the DeoxIT spray ??

So you can just spray this on the buttons or do you have to spray it where the ribbon connects to the board?

I sprayed into the button area without taking anything apart and my B buttons are workin great now.

It has seriously helped my mixing a lot since I tend to use hot cues regularly, whereas before the cues would either not trigger or be off by a few milliseconds.

Sounds good. Mine are starting to crap out as well (just after about 4 months of use). Off to Radio Shack I go!

Also, someone posted about NOT using one of the 2 bottles that come packaged together. Can someone clarify that as well?

Not sure about the two package thing, but all I can say is I bought the DeoxIT D5 spray with the red lettering.

my buttons (v2) have been playing up for a month or so now (or rather the same 1 button, which doesnt really go along with the dust theory) the 57 always gets covered up when not in use, so after dropping £1000 on the rolls royce of mixers im pretty cheesed off. Ive used deoxit which solves the problem for about a week or so, thens its up to its old tricks. Those buttons for me are one of the best features on the mixer and i use them all the time (after all who wants to look like bill gates tapping away on your laptop when you dj) so im gutted im getting these problems after about 6 months of use....

My flex FX button stopped working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Its strange, i've had problems with every button, but since i stopped cleaning them they work flawlessly.
I used to think they were crap, and i did the deoxit thing like 10 times, but now i've got a new theory.
I think the buttons take a while to sit properly when your mixer is brand new.

Try it, just leave the buttons alone, once they get loose they start working everytime.

djing last night another one of the buttons (which has peviously given me no problems) gave up the ghost about 2 hours into the set, very frustrating. Has anyone tried just blasting them with compressed air ?

Nope...I've now had my v2 ttm57 for 6 months, and my v1 since the day of release. My v2 ttm57 still misses about 1 in 3 button presses, while my v1 works like a champ. De-oxit is only a bandaid fix...and now that I have a styleflip on my ttm57 I can't take it apart every 2 weeks to respray. This really needs to be addressed.

I gotta defend Rane's decision to switch to the v2 switches, there are in fact better. The v1 buttons cause double triggers! The v2 does not (if the buttons are clean!).

I've NEVER EVER EVER had a v1 button double trigger, while I've had v2 buttons misfire 1 in 3 times since about a month after I got the mixer.

Not sure that's defendable.

With all v1's I had to use I had double triggers. That's just my experience. From my experience I fully understand why Rane changed the buttons. Also this double triggering has been confirmed by other users on the forum.

Seems like the problem with the v2 buttons is MUCH more widespread and MUCH more common. Bring on the v3 buttons.

I dont think you can say that since I assume the number of sold units for the 57 has gone ..^^^^ high ;)

Anyway, the current situation is not acceptable either - I agree.

getting ready to drop mine off at the Rane factory on Monday because a couple of my buttons are pretty shitty right now, even after several thorough cleanings.

Well since my original post.. It's time to clean my buttons again...

FREE buttons for everyone !!! damn it i want mine

i had to take my 57 in on monday to get serviced...two of my buttons were in pretty bad shape. dropped it off at 10am. got it back by 1pm the same day!!!

no charge. no hassle.

Rane,

I Love You.

DJ MoneyD

I noticed the problem with these buttons not trigering as soon as taking it out the box. I had this mixer for about 4 months now, B6 is the on/off button for effex and thus was the first to go since I use the effex quite often in my mixes. Hopefully the deoxit will fix this as B6 is completly unresponsive now. Very frustraiting being that I am located at a remote area(Iraq,Tikrit) and will take a month or more for me to get my mixer back if I send it in. I just might have to buy an external effect box and just forget about the darn buttons. I just wonder how long B5 will last for me since I just added the video plug in. Man Miss my Pioneer 909.

my b1 is starting to misfire and my b4 button stopped working altogether save for a very specific, forceful press.

As we don't have a Rane dealership near me, I'm debating on whether it's worth it to just dexoit myself. Does that really void the warranty?

As Rane has mentionded before, DeoxIt will not void the waranty. Just do not open the main Face plate.

How do you apply DeOxit properly w/o removing the main face plate?

i'm starting to have problems with my left eq,low kill button

somebody described it somewhere in this thread - i've done it too (with good results).

just get a paper towel or something to catch overspray, move the button you're spraying to the side a little bit w/ your finger and spray in the small gap.

work the button around a bit and then clean up any spray that didn't go where you intended.

works for me.

errr...didn't think about that.

well, shit.

Some people said, that i must use (to clean my "B" buttons) - DeoxIT D5, Dean Standing - Rane's Director of Sales recommended to me DeoxIT FaderLube F100! Which better!?!?!

P.S. - what spray i must use to clean my 57's faders!?

I used the F5 which I think use to be the f100, I think they changed the name, don't qoute me on that, but I used it on my faders and there like new again. One thing that happen to me was after I sprayed it got really sticky. I thought I made it worse by spraying but after like an hour it felt fine. So don't panick.

Well Nik39, it can be tricky but it is possible for you to pinch the button caps with a needle nose plyer and pull them off to gain access to the buttons on the Curciut Board. Then just spray the deoxit inside the slot.

I only mentioned not to remove the main faceplate only because it is not advisible by Rane. But yes that would be the logical way to do it.

treeo730, The F5 has a cleaning additive to it and just 5% lubrication. Once sprayed it will clean the surface and then will eventualy evaperate leaving 5% of lube on the rails. I recomend using the f100 (liqiud needle dispencer, not spray) due to the fact that this is a 100% liquid lube solution. You can apply both if desired to, but use the f5 first then the f100. The best way to clean your faders which is the way I do is to take the rails apart completley and wipe them down with deoxit cleaner D5 liquid, then reasemble and apply f100 fader lube to the rails. Works like new.

Good Info.

Never thought of that. I guess this will be a bit tricky.

you can pop the buttons out by sticking a pin down the side and levering it up, doesnt damage it at all. Despite my problems with the buttons initially, after 3 months they work perfectly without needing deoxit, must just need breaking in.

UPDATE:

Since using DeoxIT once a few months ago, I have not had a single problem with my B buttons.

I'm sticking with my post early in this thread. I firmly believe they just needed to be broken in. I haven't had a misfire in months.



They fire great ALL the time, I haven't cleaned them in forever.

Hey speaking of shirts... wasn't there a design competition a while back? I believe the design was actually pretty good. Were those shirts for say temporarily?

i dunno, but I effing want one!!!

Just deoxited my 57 and that shit is gold!!! The 2 buttons that wer'nt firing right are good as new and the faders are butter!!!

I took mine apart and de-oxit'd it yesterday. We'll see how it does now.

I insist.

What spray i must use for "B" buttons!?!? F5,F100,D5!?!?!

P.S. - FOR BUTTONS - NOT FOR FADERS!!!

This stuff... store.caig.com

Why DN5, not d5!?!?! I think it will be hard to clean my buttons with spray! With "Needle Dispenser" it will be easy! But i can't find DN5(Needle Dispenser)!

Well, it's just a straw, I'm sure you can find one at your local hardware store. Go take a straw off a can of WD-40.

Than differ D5 & DN5?

Just get the the D5. Smaller can and has the spray straw.

wow
so fantastic mixer-but myh b1 button has started to act up, just read this whole thread-ordered the deox chemical to spray on from ebay-shall see hbow it goes
i still have some confusion s to the difference between the v1 and v2 buttons...mince just seem-well flat...
shall be back with results
simon

I've noticed that my P1 and P2 knobs don't scroll through the screen as smoothly as before; i.e., the screen doesn't scroll up or down through the playlist with every click of the turn (remember that when the P1/P2 knobs are twisted, there's a small "click" that you feel).

Anyone else have this problem? It's pretty annoying when I'm trying to quickly scroll through my list of songs.

Just use the page up/down keys on your keyboard. It is much faster than twisting those knobs.

why bother the mixer was built for it ........... using the knobs that is why you pay 1499 for the mixer .....i believe rane needs to re-do this mixer from the ground up structure and ruggedness wise ..... my b4 button is acting up and my flex fx button has started to act up........


ttm57sl = FAIL!

It's a great mixer, but it seems to be gaining a notorious reputation for needing regular maintainence.

Is there such a thing as a perfect mixer afterall?

Yes I had the same issue. My P1 and P2 knobs lost the click feeling to them after wear and tear. Sent the mixer in to rane and got new knobs installed. Everything is good now for me!

I sprayed the parameter knobs with DeoxIT yesterday. Tried the mixer just a short while ago. They''re working fine now; no more choppy scrolling. I guess the buildup was causing some of the clicks to not fire off a signal. The clicks also feel better, more defined now too.

This DeoxIT is magic potion, I tell ya.

Problem solved (for now).

Where did you exactly apply the DeoxIT?

I removed the rubber knobs, then used the red tube attachment to spray into the small, small gap where the liquid might enter the pot.

If this didn't make sense then I'll try to do a video or take pics.

I think a pic for identifying the pot might be helpful. Cheers!

Sure no prob.

I had to do the same thing on the b6 button, Took the top panel off and sprayed deoxit in it and it has been fine since,

mine are shot 2 dont feel bad

Use DeoxIT to clean the switches and you'll be good to go :)

DeoxIT -->> store.caig.com

DeoxIt Is the fix. Cleaned my switches right up.

will it be wise to use deoxit and then pressurized air to blow all the gunk away..

Once everything is flushed out with the DeoxIT stuff, you shouldn't need to do anything else.

I disagree. I've had to Deoxit my B buttons twice and I've owned the mixer since February. No huge deal really.

I disagree with Dub. He probably did a better job of Deoxiting his mixer, that's why.

Or, maybe lol

I disagree with Shaun W, after DeoxITing your buttons you may need to use pressurized air to blow all the gunk away ;)

Shaun W, so you are saying that you disagree with Shaun W about using pressurized air to blow all the gunk away....?

lol

Yeah :) I was adding to the argumentativeness

ShaunW, remember the forum rules. Be nice to yourself (?)

I used a contact cleaner that is basically the same as De Oxit on my V2 buttons once about a month after i bought my 57 and over a year later i've had no trouble...

D5 Is Magic!!!!

I struggle to source the right DeoxIT in Australia, and dont trust my buttons triggering right anymore. I had to outsource performance based cueing to a small midi keyboard.

Sigh.

Look for electrical contact cleaner/deoxidizer thats safe to use on plastics (most electrical cleaner will be) and it should work the same as the Caig Labs brand.

B1 was hit or miss with triggering cue points until I read this post. Sprayed a little Deoxit on the button and it works flawless now.

That's what I'm talking about :)

shaun w - will this do the trick

www.dse.com.au

???

Ya now my b1 n b4 buttons r impossible as well as my group button lol

Can you post another link, the link above takes me to the main page :(

Have you used DeoxIT D5 to clean them yet?

damn - if you search CRC Contact Cleaner, it should pop up. Here is the description on the page:

"CO Contact Cleaner Plastic Safe formula is a technically proven, stable, inert high purity cleaning solvent. It is non-corrosive, non-staining, and has a rapid-complete evaporation - contains no lubricants.

It is formulated to remove light contaminants, dust, lint, atmospheric⁄oils, finger prints, moisture from precision electrical⁄electronic equipment where lower-flashpoint solvents may be used. It leaves no residue to increase resistance. 350g can."

"CO Contact Cleaner Plastic Safe formula used in a planned maintenance programme may eliminate carbon deposits or contaminants that hold moisture and cause corrosion or arcing. An increase in resistance will indicate the frequency of re-application.
Use CRC CO Contact Cleaner for cleaning: Relays, switches, circuit breakers, alarm and signal systems, printed circuit boards, connectors, generators, contacts, laboratory and test equipment, video heads⁄drums, terminals, plugs and jacks.
When CO Contact Cleaner is used on lubricated rotating, sliding or stepping contacts, it is recommended to apply CRC 2.26 to replace lubrication.
Does not contain CRC 113 or Methyl Chloroform.
Caution: Flammable
Physical Properties
Flash Point <0°C
Dielectric Strength 40,000 volts per ASTM D-877
Boiling Point 60.5°C
Specific Gravity 0.67
Relative Evaporation Rate Fast
Residue None
K B Value 31
Surface Tension 21 Dynes⁄cm "

look good?

Yeah man, that stuff looks like the real deal :)

nice - hopefully it works so i can stop f*cking up my mixes!

can some please tell me deoxit to get from the list below. my fader went stiff today, thanks

D5MS-15 DeoxIT (D5) - Red Aerosol Mini Spray, 14g 14.10 EA
D5S-6 DeoxIT (D5) - Red Aerosol Spray, 142g (5oz) 22.40 EA
D100L-2 DeoxIT (D5) - Red Liquid (100%), 59ml 40.60 EA
D100L-2C DeoxIT (D5) - Red Liquid (100%), Mini Tube, 2ml 8.60 EA
D100S-2 DeoxIT (D5) - Red Spray (100%), 2oz 25.20 EA
DN5S-6N DeoxIT (DN5) Rejuvenator - Aerosol Spray, 163g 25.70 EA
DFG-213-1 DeoxIT FaderGrease, 28g 23.80 EA
F5S-6 DeoxIT FaderLube (F5) - Aerosol Spray, 142g 22.40 EA
G5S-6 DeoxIT GOLD (G5) - Aerosol Spray, 200ml 25.40 EA
G100L-2C DeoxIT GOLD Mini Tube, 2ml 11.95 EA
G100S-2 DeoxIT GOLD Spray, 2oz 34.20 EA
S5S-6 DeoxIT SHIELD (S5) - Aerosol Spray, 200ml

For stiff faders, you want to use the MCL 100% lube, not Deoxit.

would "Faderlube MCL100S, 57g" be the one im looking for?

This one:
store.caig.com

This small tube provides more than enough lube to last you for years, and it's the cheapest of the 100% MCL solutions.

For best results, you want to clean the fader railes before you apply this stuff.

May i use DN5 for crossfader!?

Yes, but you'll eventually want to add a little lube to the fader.

EXCELLENT Thread.

I was afraid my mixer was the only one with this problem.

As i look back to history here :b, everyone has the problem :D

Shaun, if someone sprays deoxid-spray into those buttons (without removing the faceplate) does that also void the warranty?

no, they actually endorse you to do that bro

This thread is getting redundant... the BOTTOM LINE is: EVERY post that I've read (especially since the introduction of the TTM57) someone from RANE has recommended that a button be sprayed before returning it to them. Even though the actual warranty disclaimer may suggest for us NOT to remove the plate, Rane has acknowledge that they WOULD STILL WARRANTY your mixer. Legally they have to protect themselves from that ONE possibility of a person who has NO CLUE on how to screw in a LIGHT BULB, trying to repair their own mixer.

Would a moderator or Rane rep PLEEEAASE come put this issue to rest!

Give that man a CIGAR! <handin Steve A Cuban>

Sorry to hear about your Dad, Steve....but you sho put a damper on my Congratulatory ending to this thread...next time...PLEASE stay with tha SCRIPT! LOL!

I wasted money on buying maplins contact then switch cleaner on those buttons, it was a false economy.. Finally bought some deoxit and i was amazed at the results, the buttons are like new with no mis firing ! Incidentally the faceplate never comes off, ive mastered the technique of being able to pull up those buttons with my thumb and fore finger (small nails required)

hey i got the same button problem...
i got a question, i´m a lil bit confused with all this cailube stuff

CaiLube DeoxIT D5MS-
CaiLube MCLFN5
CaiLube ProGold G5MS

which one of those will fix the buttom problem?? i use the D5MS and the MCLFN for my faders but are they good for the buttoms??
and should i take the cover of the mixer off to spray under the button??

thanks

problem solved, thanks to deoxit D5, SSL WIKI and nik39 ;-)

Glad to hear it =)

reminds me: I gotta deoxit my 57 again cuz knobs are not very responsive again.

It's nice to know that this is one of the longest threads here.. and I started it back in 22 September 2007

WIll this work if my EQ kills are starting to fail on me (rocking the buton back and forth and intermitent cutting in and out of the kill). Would like to solve this issue asap. Cheers.

Yes the buttons are all the same so a bit of deoxit will sort them out.

Cheers!

so i just bought my ttm 57 back in june and i,m already having this problem so the question that i realy want to know is do i have to take the face pate off to deox it or just spray the buttons thanks.

ssl-wiki.help.bootlegs.de < click

thanks appreciate the link

Nice link, but if the unit still under warranty - SEND IT IN TO RANE!!!

Thats the legal rant/bla bla. Inofficially Mods had been suggesting this.

However, you can still use the de-oxid method without having to open the mixer.

Bought a new 57 in April, and already having this problem. Returning it to Sennheiser in the UK is simply not an option for me, as I've been told the turnaround time is around 3 weeks, and I DJ 4-6 times a week, and need the 57 at most of those gigs. I have some Cailube spray - will that do any good if I spray the affected button?

Ok My Niggz! Ive been using PB Blaster to deoxidize & lube my Faders buttons, relays and a hole lot more ever since a friend of mine told me about it at first I was Squeptical of course Iv known PB as like a WD-40 penetrating lube for rusted or stubern nuts and bolts. you can find it in any Advance auto or pepboys for about 5-6 bucks. the way I doit is I get a small plastic cup like a shot cup and a mixing straw spray some lube in the cup and dip the staw in bout a quarter inch no more then cover the other side of the straw with your finger. place the end of the straw were ur going to clean deoxid or lube and let go of the finger almost like using a droper only the mixing straw fits any ware. do this just once a month or as needed depending on how much you use it. Note like dexit d5 you might expirience some sticking if your using it on faders but that well go away after an hr or much less.

I fixed my B1 and Master/Cue buttons perfectly using the deoxit method from the SSL Wiki... but now the only problem is that my channel 1 is not fading in or out at all...I followed the instructions by connecting the correct ribbons to the correct faders making sure that the Labels from the PCB were facing up.

Also, when I slide the Fader 1 contour from Slow to Fast it makes Channel 1 much louder, but I don't have functionality w/ the main Channel 1 Up/down fader...

Please help!

I've had that problem, I had to send it in to Rane :/

Ollie.. try putting your X fader in the line fader slot and vice versa.
If your line fader doesn't work in the X fader slot and the X fader works in the line slot then chances are you fried the line fader.
This can happen if:
A. You plug the ribbon cable that connects to the main board on backwards or
B. you don't plug all six prongs on the fader board to the six prong inputs on the ribbon cable (you only plug three of those six prongs in).

If the fader is fried, and your unit is under warranty, you will need to send your unit in for service.
If its not under warranty you can purchase a new fader assembly and we can send it to you.

Yep Thanks Zach... I ended up learning the hard way... fried all 3 of my faders trying to figure it out... I sent out my mixer last week and should be recieving it in a couple of days... Everybody @ Rane was pretty helpful and they didn't charge me too much for all the repairs...This is an important tip that should probably be notated on the wiki nik39 posted just in case anyone else wants to deoxit their buttons...

So what's the tip? From reading your post I understand that you fried the faders but I didn't understand how you achieved this.

Either he attached the ribbon cable to the main board backwards or he only attached 3 of the 6 prongs on the fader board to the prong inputs on the ribbon cable.
This will fry the fader every time.

Exactly...there's no room for error... once you connect the fader ribbons incorrectly it will fry em...

Not a good design.

Yes.. once you turn the mixer back on.

Agreed.. it would be nice if this didn't happen but thankfully its pretty hard to screw up as long as you know what your doing.